Going back to basics 2.0! This week we decided that it would be best to talk through our most HIGHLY requested topic- Easibuild overlay on Natural Nails. Throughout this blog, we will talk through the benefits of Easibuild and how to create long-lasting, durable overlays. All products used will be available to buy from www.purenails.co
Step 1: Prep Work
Prep work is a vital step, this step should never be rushed and should always take you between 10-15 minutes to complete. The reason for this is you have to ensure that the gel polish will adhere to the natural nail, your prep work helps to eliminate any barriers that may stop the polish adhering, so take your time!
For a more in-depth version of the prep work, read last week's blog 'Going Back To Basics: How To Apply Flawless, Long-Lasting Gel Polish'.
Cuticle work: Start by neatening up your client's cuticles using our Pure Nails Manicure Spoon, once the cuticles look neat and pushed back, use our Pure Nails Cuticle Nipper to cut away any dead skin/cuticle- the most important tip to remember when using cuticle nippers is if there isn't anything to cut, don't cut it! This may sound straight forward, however cutting live cuticle or skin can really hurt and damage a client's nail.
Shaping: Now with a 240/240 file start buffing over the nails to make sure no leftover gel or residue from any other product is still on the nail, and shaping the nail to the style your client likes. Once you have finished shaping & buffing, use your Prep & Scrub. Spray this all over the nails to dehydrate the nail and remove any dust on the nail.
Step 2: Easibuild
Firstly, we started off with our Base Coat- starting off in the middle of the nail and bouncing the brush up to get the product as close to the cuticle as you can. Now drag the brush down each sidewall and cap the tip of the nail. Check them over and then cure for 30 seconds.
Now time for the Easibuild application. We start off by applying with what we call a 'slick layer'. The slick layer is a thin layer of gel that acts as a guide to tell the second layer of thicker gel where it can and can't go. It is really important to apply the slick layer very neatly and exactly where you want it to go; as close to the cuticle as you can, down each nail side wall & then, of course, cap the end of the nail. Once you are happy with how your slick layer looks, you can move onto applying the second layer- we do not cure the slick layer!
With the second layer, you want to get a lot of product on your gel polish brush. Now tip your gel polish brush upside down to allow the product to fall and gather at the tip. Once the product has gathered, we start applying it to the nails. Gently press it onto the middle of the nail and push up the product as high as you can, now wiggle the product from side to side and cap the tip (there should be no need to drag the product, it should just fall into place.) Now get your client to turn her hand upside down for a few seconds, this will allow the gel to fall to the centre and create a natural apex. Ask your client to pop his or her hand into the lamp and cure for 30 seconds. Continue with the rest of your client's nails.
Our Head of Education, Tina Bell, suggests starting off with the little finger and your ring finger. Once there 2 fingers have cured, move onto the other hand and do the same fingers. Then continue with the rest of the other fingers. Doing 2 fingers at a time will save you time and help speed up the process!
Step 3: Finishing touches
Once the Easibuild has been cures and all nails have been done, you need to remove the inhibition layer (the sticky, tacky layer). The best way to remove this is with our Gel Wipe or with our Prep & Scrub, simply to spray it onto the nail and wipe off.
After you have wiped this layer off, you will need to buff the Easibuild in. To do this, we recommend our normal filing routine which consists off filing down the sidewalls, around the cuticle area and along the nail-super easy and straight forward! Once you have complete the filing process, you will need to remove the dust with our Prep & Srub.
Now time to base coat, this step isn't a must, however, we feel that it makes it easier when applying colour! Base cured, you can now go in with the clients colour choice & then the top coat.
Yes, Easibuild is THAT simple!